Practising my Partners Design - First Attempt

A few days ago my partner and I got together to discuss her New Elizabethan make up design and for me to have a practice at it.

Becky's Face Chart

Upon initial inspection of Becky's face chart I noticed that its a fairly artistic representation of the Elizabethan era. It involves the application of a mixture of water and flour to the face to create a sort of mask. This mask then dries and make up is applied over the top to represent the damage elizabethan cosmetics would have done to the wearers face.

Here's the look I created on the day.

Im really pleased with the outcome considering it was my first attempt using materials Id never used before. There are a few things I need to work on though.

1. I need to apply less flour mixture to the cheeks as in this attempt it didn't dry in time and didn't produce the cracked effect Becky was aiming for.

2. I need to blend the flour mixture in to the hair line more to make the application look more finished and flawless, and thus do the same with the products used on top.

3. My contouring needs a bit of work, on one side I've taken it further down the cheek and also the placement is a little bit off. Next time i need to remember to build up the application gradually and also to feel the cheek to help my placement 

Becky also decided that another layer of white skin base over the top would be needed to intensify the white as at the moment it looks a bit too pink. 

In this post I haven't gone in to great detail about the process used to complete the look as on this occasion Becky just wanted to get comfortable with using the products and the overall look she was aiming for.

My Contemporary Sitter & New Elizabethan

Sitter
Ive decided that the purpose of my contemporary Elizabethan look will be a design featured in a high fashion magazine editorial article based on the interpretation of icons throughout history. 

Ive decided that the sitter for my contemporary look will be Barbara Palvin.

Barbara Palvin for L'Oreal Paris
http://www.hdwallpapers.in/barbara_palvin_for_loreal_paris-wallpapers.html

The reason Ive chosen Barbara is because I feel she fits the bill as a contemporary Mary Stuart. Her complexion is beautifully pale and her hair is a beautiful shade of chestnut brown, altogether she has a very renaissance look about her. I feel her appearance would lend itself greatly to my high fashion design.

My New ElizabethanI have been tasked to nominate a modern individual who represents a new elizabethan. The aim of this I think is to solidify my understanding of the elizabethan era and individuals within it. 
I have chosen Prince Harry.

Prince Harry of Wales
http://tinyurl.com/lcme3r3

The reason I've nominated prince Harry as my new elizabethan is because i think he draws a few similarities with my researched elizabethan Mary Queen of Scots. First of all, they are both members of british regency. Like Mary Prince Harry has a claim to the throne, but as second born son this is overshadowed by his older brother prince William who has a direct line to the throne and would be the rightful ruler after his father, Prince Charles. Similarly, Mary had a claim to the throne but this was overshadowed by Elizabeth's stronger claim through her blood relation to King Henry VII. 

Although I doubt William's tried to murder his brother and nephew. 

Colour Theory

'Colour theory' is a guidance to colour mixing and the visual effects of colour combinations. The way we perceive colours has not always been entirely clear and theories date back to as early as Leonardo Da Vinci c.1490. 

Colour can attributed to moods, attract an audience and make statements. As a make up artist and designer I feel its essential to have a good understanding of colour and the effects combinations of colour can have.

The 'Colour Wheel' is a diagram that demonstrates the relationship between colours, this visual demonstration is most often associated with Sir Isaac Newton. The wheel is designed to show how show how colours relate to each other. Below is an example of a common colour wheel.

RYB Colour Wheel
http://www.tigercolor.com/color-lab/color-theory/color-theory-intro.htm

In this traditional colour wheel the Primary colours are red, yellow and blue. 

Primary Colours are a group of colours which when mixed create all other colours. The Three Secondary colours in this model are green, orange and purple which are created by mixing two primary colours together. The remaining six colours are Tertiary which means they have been created by mixing primary and secondary colours together. 

Colours that lay opposite each other other on the colour wheel are considered to be Complementary Colours, these tones are contrasting and often create a sense of vibrancy. For example red and green.

Complementary Combination
http://www.tigercolor.com/color-lab/color-theory/color-theory-intro.htm

Analogous Colours are found next to each other on the colour wheel. These colour combinations are often similar and create a sense of harmony. 
Tigercolor.com suggests that when using an Analogous colour scheme one should choose one tone to dominate, another to support and the third to accent. 

An Analogous Combination
http://www.tigercolor.com/color-lab/color-theory/color-theory-intro.htm

An Achromatic Colour Scheme is one that is void of colour and uses black, white and grey.

A Monochromatic Colour scheme is that focuses on the use of a single colour. It is achieved by by using one colour and making use of that colours various tints, hues, tones and shades.

A Monochromatic Combination - Purple
https://cs.nyu.edu/courses/fall02/V22.0380-001/color_theory.htm

Having looked at colour theory and the various relationship between colours on a colour wheel, I have experimented using face charts to try and harness these concepts. 

My Monochromatic look

For this look I've focused on the colour blue and tried to execute difference tones and saturations in order to create an intiguring look. Overall I think its a visually pleasing look, the addition of the darker and more saturated tone of blue on the lips completes the look and without it the whole design would loose impact. 

My Analogous look

For this look I've tried to create an analogous colour scheme of Pinks and Purples. Unfortunately upon reflection I don't think Ive varied the tones enough and it looks more like a monochromatic scheme than analogous. Unfortunately the tones of pink and purple I've used are quite similar and perhaps I should tried to introduce a more blue-tones purple or a more red-toned pink in order to accomplish this look.

Practical - Historical & Contemporary Elizabethan Make up

Awaiting practical catch up on Tuesday.

Developing & Experimenting with my design

Developing my idea - Kyrolan Lip Palette used

In this picture I've captured my trial application of one of my design ideas. Unfortunately I haven't blocked the eyebrows out as in my design as I couldn't get my hands on any soap or glue stick. Here Ive applied subtle shadowing around the socket of my eye as seen in my original design however I felt it was a bit too subtle and could be made more prominent. Although this was in the evening under domestic lighting which needs to be taken in to consideration, this could look differently under studio lighting.

Close up - Kryolan lip palette used

I also feel my mixture of lip colours has turned out a little too coral toned i feel this tone isn't particularly relevant to the Elizbethan era and in portraits I've studied of Mary and others the cheek and lip colour is natural hues of rosy pink. 

In this image you can see I have experimented with a different medium and choice of colour. I decided to dust a pink toned powder on to the lips and i think the result is very soft and natural looking and i feel the colour is appropriate however I feel the coverage of Kryolan lip colour is better and provide a more contemporary and striking look than the powder method. 
In this little experiment I've also added to the grey shadowing around the eye and m pleased with the result, it confirms my ideas that in the first attempt i was too light handed. 

Taking my design forward...
- I will feature a more natural tone of rosy pink more similar to that seen in portraits of Mary Stuart using matte lip colour
- I will make the contour shadowing around the eyes more prominent and perhaps depen the contour in the cheeks accordingly 

Design Idea 3

Design Idea 3
Various materials on paper

My final design idea is also based on my research in to Mary Queen of Scots and also what I have learnt of her execution. The thing you'll notice most about this design is the slashes of red supra colour across the neck. These are supposed to be representative of Mary's gruesome death as well as to represent her martyrdom. 

Ive also tried to emulate Marys extremely porcelain toned complexion as well a subtle hint of both natural hued lip and cheek colour which is always down played in portraits of Mary. 

As in many portraits of Mary inkling my favourite below, she is often seen in deep shades of black and rarely any coloured robes. I have referenced her choice of dress in this deign through the use of dark grey tones on the eyelids, which is a fairly contemporary addition. However I don't think I've featured this strongly enough and it looks a little too subtle and would reference her dress greater is the pigment was stronger. 

Design Idea 2

Design Idea 2
Various materials on paper

For this design I have fouled mostly on my research of Mary Queen of Scots and my favourite portrait of her during her brief reign on the Scottish throne.

Mary Queen of Scots c.1565 by unknown artist
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqosimages.html

In this design I've referenced traditional Elizabethan make up application including the blocking of eyebrows to accentuate the forehead and a extremely overly pale complexion. I have tried to emulate Mary's radiant complexion through the addition of some highlight using the Illamasqua skin base in white. I have also tried to take inspiration from the shadowing around Mary's eyes which is extremely prominent in this this portrait among others I've looked at. I have also featured a natural looking pink toned lip as seen in this portrait of Mary, as well as some subtle blush on the cheeks.  Unlike traditional Elizabethan styles i have included the use of black mascara which i intend to modernise the design nd bring out the eyes. 

If I were to take this design forward for my assessment I think I would try and add some further intrigue as currently I think its a bit safe. 

Design Idea 1

Design Idea 1 - Various materials on paper

My initial design takes inspiration from mostly that of Elizabeth I and is intended to have connotations of virgin and innocence. I have taken idea mostly from a portrait I have previously studied, the Coronation portrait 

Coronation portrait c.1600 unknown artist
http://www.npg.org.uk/learning/digital/sen/explore-elizabeth-i.php

Ive tried to emphasise the my own pale complexion in this design to emulate the radiance of Elizabeth's in this famous portrait. I love her soft her complexion looks in that portrait so I've included the use of the illamasqua translucent powder to give the final look a soft, matte finish. Ive also referenced the traditional trend of the time by blocking put the eyebrows. Ive used a fresh pink blusher powder dusted on the lips to create a very natural looking flush of colour to give a sense of the natural and innocent beauty reflected in this portrait. I've tried to make the look more contemporary by adding a subtle contour and the addition of some light pink eyeshadow to the outer corner of the eye lid. 

Overall, I am actually quite fond of this design. I think Ive achieved a very feline look that references the elizabethan period but also looks fairly contemporary, however I think currently the design is perhaps to historical and could be updated more once I have chosen a sitter. 

Mary vs Elizabeth

The Pelican Portrait by N.Hilliard c.1575
http://tinyurl.com/34tyjv7

Portrait of Mary Queen of Scots by unknown artist c.1565
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqosimages.html

When you examine these two portraits of Elizabeth and Mary a number of differences spring to mind. For starters, I notice how vibrant and colourful the pelican portrait is. On the other hand, this portrait of Mary is so much darker, compared to Elizabeth her complexion looks quite ghostly especially accented by shadows of grey hue. 
Elizabeth is also heavily laden with jewels, the top half of her costume looks almost encrusted with them, suggested wealth and splendour. Marys outfit and surroundings are dominantly black with accents of white and gold which due suggest a sense of nobility however not to the extent this is done in the first portrait of Elizabeth. 
Finally, Mary's skin appears more contoured, her eyes are much more shadowed and appear more sunken in.

Cate Blanchett as Queen Elizabeth I (Elizabeth: The Golden Age -2007 )
http://tinyurl.com/ntaydsu

Samantha Morton as Mary Stuart (Elizabeth: The Golden Age - 2007)
http://tinyurl.com/nws6hee

'Elizabeth: The Golden Age' is a 2007 film that depicts the latter stages of Elizabeth's reign as queen of England. Mary Stuart is featured heavily in this film, including her plot to kill the queen. Its interesting to look at this representations of these two historical figures. Their complexions are similar, very pale although Samantha Morton's appears even more so, practically glowing like in many of the portraits I've seen of Mary. I love how her complexion is set off against the scarlet petticoat she wears which I think very strikingly asserts her position as a martyr and also cleaverly gestures towards her imminent bloody demise. 

Mary Stuart - Imprisonement and Execution

So far it seems Mary hadn't had much of great life considering she was down 3 husbands, she'd been basically exiled from her own country and was now seeking the help of a cousin she had never met.

Mary had hoped Elizabeth would support her due to her claim to the throne but instead Elizabeth had her imprisoned and kept under constant surveillance. 

Over the next 19 years Mary became the focal point of many plots to assonate Elizabeth, cohering with English Roman Catholics. However, as Mary was never directly involved Elizabeth was reluctant to act. 

Portrait of Mary Stuart c.1580
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqosimages.html

This portrait created during Mary's captivity is similar to that of others in the sense that she is heavily featured in black, her skin pale and her features are prominent. What i find interesting about this portrait is the addition of white in her costume, handkerchief and headwear. The resulting affect looks almost priest-like suggesting to me that perhaps Mary was trying to show a connection with god, connoting that her actions had some sort of martyred purpose. The addition of the handkerchief I find poignant, it makes me feel as if I'm supposed to feel sorry for her.

Portrait of Mary by N.Hilliard c.1578
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqosimages.html

I find the symbolism within the portrait very similar. Look how heavily her faith is referenced through the addition of not one but two biblical crosses. Ahain se wears a strikingly dark costume with additions f a white collar and coif. Howver, to me in this portrait Mary looks older, more haggard perhaps turned sour by her captivity. 

In 1586 Mary corresponded with Anthony Babbington who was plotting to kill Elizabeth. However these messages were intercepted by Elizabeth's chief counsel Francis Wolsingham which provided him with enough evidence t convince the queen she was a threat. 
Mary was tried for treason and condemned to death October 1586. 

It is said that Elizabeth procrastinated over the warrant for Mary's death but eventually signed it an Mary was executed 8th February 1587. 

It is reported that Mary controversially wore red petticoat beneath her costume which symbolised Catholic martyrdom. As far as Mary was concerned she was dying for her faith. 

It is stated that he said this to one of her servants:


"You ought to rejoice and not to weep for that the end of Mary Stuart's troubles is now done... all this world is but vanity and full of troubles and sorrows. Carry this message from me and tell my friends that I died a true woman to my religion, and like a true Scottish woman and a true French woman; but God forgive them that have long desired my end."
(http://www.educationscotland.gov.uk/scotlandshistory/renaissancereformation/execution/index.asp)

The fact that refers to herself as a 'true woman to my religion' reinforces the idea that she believed herself to be a perpetrator of gods work, she even pleads god to forgive those who wish her dead.  I find this idea of herself fascination and could perhaps prove an interesting spin on a make up look. 

From research Ive found that the execution itself was a fairly gruesome affair. 
"the executioner struck her a great blow upon the neck, which was not, however, entirely severed. then he struck twice more..."
(http://www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/maryqueenofscots.htm)

Narrative Woodcut by unknown artist c.1587
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqos/maryqosexecution.jpg

The wood carving above demonstrates the scene of Marys execution, although fairly faded you can see her form laid out in red beneath her executioner who stands ready to behead her. 

During my research in to the life and death of Mary Stuart I came across something rather morbid but fascinating.

To the left is Mary's death mask. This item was moulded from her lifeless head and remains today at Lennoxlove House. 

Although incredibly creepy, I find this to be fascinating as it gives us an isight in to how Mary really looked and what i find most striking about this is how beautiful mary was even in to her forties. her face is incredibly symmetrical and her nose and lips perfectlyformed. her lashes and brows are noticeable and as seen in many portraits beautiful natural shadowing can be seen around her eyes and nose. 

Mary Stuart continued..

Mary Queen of Scots c.1565 by unknown artist
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqosimages.html

The portrait above is by far my favourite of mary stuart. This portrait was painted during her brief adult rule over Scotland. The portrait features her in a very in a black dress, heavily embroidered with gold thread and a high white collar. The costume of this portrait suggests to me power and wealth. Again Mary's appearance is extraordinarily pale, it does make me wonder if Mary did this to make her seem closer to god, as white as we know is a sign of purity and during her reign there was religious turmoil of which Mary was at the heart of.
In this portrait, he cheeks and lips have a flush of red and her forehead appears much higher than previous paintings. What I find most intriguing about Marys appearance in this portrait is her facial features, they're very shadowed and prominent highlighting to me the symmetry of her face, something in modern society we consider to be a sign of natural beauty. Her nose and eye socket appear very chiseled and the contrat between the white complexion of her skin and the grey shadowing give a very beautiful but almost skeletal impression.

By the end of 1566 Mary had befriended James Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, and sought to dissolve her marriage to Darnley.

In 1567 Darnley was murdered, the details of his death still remain a mystery today but it is thought mary was aware of this considering her hasty marriage to Hepburn the same year. 

Marys marriage to Hepburn was unpopular to say the least. Following the marriage placards mocking the union were posted throughout Edinburgh. these placards scandalised the union by portraying the queen as a prostitute and temptress. One of such examples can be seen below. 

'The Mermaid & The Hare' by unknown artist 1567
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqosimages.html

The Mermaid and the Hare was one such placard denouncing the supposed adulator between Mary and Bothwell. These rem ours were only encouraged by their wedding just three months following Darnley's suspicious death. The mermaid was thought to symbolise a prostitute and the hare was Bothwell's insignia. 

Nobles banded togethor to face Mary and her new husband. Mary was imprisoned at Lochleven castle and forced to surrender. On 24th July 1567 she forced to abdicate the throne.

With the help of some allies Mary man aged to escape Lochleven. they engaged in battle but were beaten by an army led by protestant lords. At twas at this point Mary decided to leave scotland and seek the help of her cousin, Queen Elizabeth I. 

(Information sourced from http://www.marie-stuart.co.uk)

Who was Mary Stuart?

Mary Stuart was born at Linlithgow Palace on 7th December 1542 to James V of Scotland and Mary of Guise. Mary actually became queen 6 days later due to her fathers death.

Her mother was chosen as regent and had Mary sent to France in 1548.

In 1588 she married Dauphin Francis who succeeder his father to the throne the following year.

Many Roman Catholics recognised Mary as the rightful ruler of England after Mary I died, instead Protestant Elizabeth succeeded her. Her claim to the throne was based on the fact that she was the granddaughter of Margaret Tudor, sister of Henry VII. To Catholics her claim was stronger as Henry's Marriage to Elizabeth's mother Anne Boleyn was seen as illegal.

Miniature portrait of Mary c.1558, by unknown artist
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqos/maryring.jpg

In this portrait, dated the year Mary married Francis, I find that she has a striking resemblance to wary portraits to that of her cousin, Elizabeth. The face is also similar, the skin is incredibly pale, but there is absence of any additional colour to the cheeks or lips as seen in many portraits of Elizabeth. I find Mary's complexion in this portrait to be absolutely beautiful, her skin is almost glowing and the is only greater emphasised by the coral tones of her costume. 

It is thought that this portrait represents one the happiest times in Mary's life when she married to her first husband, i think this is reflected in her strong pose, glowing skin and the richness of the dress. 

In 1560 at the tender age of 18 Mary's husband died. Unwilling to remain in France under the rule of her mother in law, Mary chose to take her chances with Protestant reformers back in Scotland. 

When Mary returned to Scotland, still Queen, she tried to balance new protestantism with her catholic faith. 

In 1565 she married her cousin Henry Stewart, Lord Darnley.

Portrait of Mary c.1565 by unknown artist
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqos/maryqosclouetdark.jpg

I find this portrait dated 1565 more sombre in tone to the previous selection from 1558. Marys hair appears less radiant and her hair has darkened considerable to what looks now brunette. I find the make up to be fairly similar, he skin is still very ale and flawless with absence of any cheek or lip colour, her eyebrows are faint but visible which was actually fairly unusual for nobles in England at this time. The high collar in this portrait as well as the heavily jewelled costume represent to me and high social standing. 

This marriage was never acceptable to the protestants. Mary felt betrayed by her protestant advisors and thus withdrew some of her support from the reformed church. Her marriage with Darnley soured and refused him the right to succeed her if she died.

In 1566 Mary gave birth to a son, James.

Information adapted from http://www.marie-stuart.co.uk

Reflection: A new Direction...

Having played around with face charts for the last week or so, Ive had somewhat of a revelation. During my one to one with course leader Sharon Lloyd, I've come to realise a few things:
1. I need to throw myself in to this project
2. i need to find something I find interesting about the Elizabethan era and run with it
3. I need to document my experimentation and practical workings.

The Face Charts below I focused around the representation of Elizabeth I, although they look nice...theyre not all that inspiring or original. Sharon reminded me that this project isn't about creating a look based on Elizabeth I, it's about creating a contemporary look that references the Elizabethan Era.

When I considered possibly looking at someone else for inspiration, one historical figure immediately sprung to mind and that was Mary Stuart, also known as Mary Queen of Scots.

What I know of this monarch comes from 'Elizabeth:The Golden Age'. In the film Mary Stuart is held captive at Elizabeth's command, as Mary is an heir to the throne of England could pose a threat to Elizabeth's reign. Mary is very much portrayed as a villain in this depiction and this is what I find most intriguing about her. Ive decided to look more closely at Mary Stuart because her story interests me and I want to know more about this character who appear to some sort of nemesis to Elizabeth.

The Westmore's

According to an article penned by Brian Watt, of the Southern Calfornia Radio Station, the Westmores created 'Hollywood Beauty' on faces from Bette David to Elizabeth Taylor alongside beasts like the Hunchback of Notre Dame and Mr Hyde. 
The article goes on to inform me that the legacy of the Westmore's begins with George. George Westmore was a hair stylist and wigmaker from England who began a salon in Hollywood at a time when actors did their own hair and make up.

According to Watt, George founded his first Make-up studio in 1917 and was also known to make house visits for stars seeking 'the perfect look'.

Westmore had six sons; Monte, Ern, Perc, Wally, Frank and Bud, all of which followed him in to the industry. 
Perc Westmore become prominent for creating 'disguises' at what would become Warner Brothers, Whereas Wally was situated at Paramount. Organisations the other brothers worked for included 20th Century Fox (Ern) and Universal Studios (Bud).

Today members of the Westmore's third generation remain prominent in the industry. Marvin Westmore, son of Monte, and his brother Michael have worked on productions including 'Rocky' the television series, 'Star Trek:Next Generation' and 'The Mask'. 

('Oscars 2013: Westmore's continue to make up Hollywood, one generation at a time' by Brian Watt, Feb 21 2013
http://www.scpr.org/programs/take-two/2013/02/21/30608/oscars-2013-westmore-family-continues-to-make-up-h/)

Intriguingly, Perc Westmore ic acreditted to a film that focuses on the affections of Elizabeth I entitled 'The Private Lives of Elizabeth & Essex'. According to a source, Bette Davis who played Elizabeth insisted that Perc shave her hairline to give the appearance that she was bald under the wigs she wore. This was v dry in keeping with traditional elizabethan styles as a high forehead was often adhered to. 

(Clip:Bette Davis (Queen Elizabeth I) vs Olivia de Havilland (Mistress Penelope), https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggGrMd4esfs. The Private Lives of Elizabeth & Essex, 1939, Warner Bros) 

In the clip above you can see Perc's work on Davis for the film. The thing I notice most is the covering of the eyebrows which look as if they've been completely shaven. I admire the use of technique an product to adhere to the elizabethan trend of shaved eyebrows which were done so to emphasise the forehead. Two more aspects of Perc's work I admire is the complexion, the character Elizabeth appears to have the most flawless and porcelain looking skin which I know from research was traditionally achieved through the use of white lead. 

Contemporary Elizabethan looks

Having looked at many historical portraits to gain insight in to the make up applied during the elizabethan era, I have furthered my research by looking in to contemporary make up looks that reference this era as well. These example could provide valuable insight in ways to manipulate my understanding of elizabethan cosmetics in to a modern representation.

This first example Im going to look at is a close up from Alexander McQueen's 2009 show.

McQueen 2009
http://tinyurl.com/qe7ccul

I feel that this make up design subtlety references the era through the use of a pale complexion, blocked out eyebrows which emulate the fashion of the elizabethan era as well as the red used on the lips which was also a trend. I feel what makes this look contemporary is the exaggerated lip line which has been taken beyond the natural form of the lips and rounded in to almost a clown like appearance. What I feel also makes this look more modern and high fashion is the use such a bold and vibrant hue of red, in the elizabethan portraits tones of rose were often used unlike this almost blood-red tone. 

Dark Beauty Magazine
http://www.darkbeautymag.com/2013/07/david-amar-naama/

The second image Im going to examine is an image from Dark Beauty magazine. The Make up Artist featured is Revital Franko. What I love about this image is how flawless and beautifully porcelain the skin looks in this image. The application of such a pale skin tone strongly emulates that of the Elizabethan era. The pale and flawless complexion is enhanced by the continuation of this in to the eyelashes which have also been coated in white. Similarly the eyebrows have also been blocked out which also resonates this time period as eyebrows were entirely plucked to emphasise a high forehead. What makes this look more contemporary is use the use of a very bold matte lip. The colour used is an oxblood red, not a tone typically seen in elizabethan portraiture. The use an identical colour on the nails emphasises the bold lip and thus makes it stand out even more. 

Finally the last contemporary image I'm going to look at is an editorial image from 'Make Up Magazine Romania'.

'Make up Magazine Romania'
http://tinyurl.com/loq4nxo

The reason I think this image references the elizabethan era if the emphasis on a pale complexion. The skin is almost completely white with some subtle skin warmth coming through. The pale complexion is emphasised by the use of a very dark shadow above the eyes which overall makes the look feel more sinister. i feel the use of black shadowing also makes the look more contemporary as the Elizabethans didn't really use kohl or eyeshadow. Like the other images the eyebrows have been blanked out, but in this look they have almost been re-represented through the adornment of pearls along the brow and forehead. Again I think the use of pearls reinforces the pale complexion but also references the elizabethan era as these gems were often used to adorn gowns and the hair. 

A contemporary portrait of wealth

I find it interesting to look at images of celebrities or public figures when you consider the way the represent themselves because in fact much of the symbolism used is similar to that in portraits of Elizabeth I. 

The Kardashians
http://www.vibe.com/article/kardashians-sign-40m-deal-e

The above image is the accompanying image from an article on vibe.com. The article discusses the '$40million deal' the Kardashian family signed for the production of the 6th season of 'Keeping Up with the Kardashians'. The image features the 6 women dressed in predominately dressed in white stood in white  room within a high rise building. 
What I find most intriguing in this image is the abundance of white. The 6 women are all dressed in white, to me this symbolises wealth and a high social standing as practically white would never be worn by those in the lower classes with manual vocations as they would become soiled. The fact that all of the women featured wear white gives a strong suggestion of an abundance of wealth within this family. 
Likewise the room they stand within is also crisp and white, again emphasising the fact that these women don't require practical circumstances because their vocations lie within the world of celebrity and glamour. 
Another feature of the location is the furniture, take for example the suspended arm chair. this is a luxury item bought with the intention for its aesthetics rather than it's practicality as this item looks far from comfortable, again furthering the idea that these women have more money than sense. 
Another key piece of furniture in the image is the silver stool two of the family punch upon. The colour silver is one in contemporary society we associate with jewellery, money and glamour.
Overall the symbolism used within this image is mostly used to suggest wealth and the sitters place in a life of glamour and celebrity. The Kardashians is simply a programme that focuses on the day to day lives of the Kardashian family, I Imagine the people that enjoy this programme do so for voyeurism, they take pleasure from being able to second handedly experience a life of wealth, glamour and fame and the use of symbolism is done so to emphasise this and encourage those who enjoy this sort of reality television to watch.
On another note, the use of black is quite poignant within this image. The way theyve dressed the woman mostly in white with small additions of black to me suggest that within the programme that will be moment of darkness and grit which again for the target audience will add further intrigue and encouragement to watch the show.

Analysis of a Portrait

The Ermine Portrait c.1585 is a famous portrait of Elizabeth I painted by Nicholas Hilliard. The particular portrait is a key portrait is an important one to look at as it features a lot of symbolism and indicates a lot to do wight he way Elizabeth portrayed herself to her people. 

The Ermine portrait features Elizabeth I, heavily clothed in black and gold with her hands visible. Atop of her sits a small white creature called an ermine and to the side sits a gold sword.

Key symbolism within the portrait 
- The Ermine. An Ermine featured in this portrait wears a miniature crown which suggests excess in wealth as Ermine with a white coat was a particularly rare breed to skin thus this resulted in the fur of the creature being incredibly expensive. 
It was also believed that Ermine were particularly proud animals and would rather die than to sully their white coat and in this portrait has been chosen to symbolise purity as Elizabeth herself was apparently a virgin queen.
- Bejewelled Black Costume The costume Elizabeth wear is a rich combination of black and gold embroidery. Black material was often associated with the elite and the addition of gold embroidery and jewels gives an overwhelming essence of wealth and standing.
- The Sword of State The way the sword of state lays just to the right of the Queen suggests she it on hand giving the impression that she's prepared to defend her country.

The symbolism used in this portrait work together to portray Elizabeth is a certain light. The use of the ermine for example represents her a pure being, with with high morals, perhaps even close to god. This representation would be intentionally so that her subjects would see her as a positive, force of good at the head of the country. 
Similarly the use of her luxurious clothing and the sword work by representing her as a powerful and wealthy monarch, something she would have wanted other nations to understand; was not a force to be reckoned with. 

Carina Buckley Analytical Review - The Danger Dress

In our most recent seminar with Dr Carina Buckley we were shown a post off of the blog 'fashion toast'. This post features a series of similar images simply titled 'Where have all the surfing cowboys gone'. This blog offers little explanation as to the purpose of their creation and the blog's somewhat unusual title so we were tasked to analyse this image and to formulate our own opinions.

The image below is the sixth of the seven images features and personally I feel this particular best sums up the collective. 
The image features a young female (approximately 20) leaning against a wall on a sidewalk sporting a white dress (referred to as the danger dress) and matching trainers. The sun can be seen poking through the top of the image.

I personally feel that the intention behind these photos is one of romance and also a social stance. Take the post title for instance, the question refers to 'surfing cowboys' (which can be seen written on the wall in earlier pictures) something of which i have never been made aware of before as one wouldn't usually put that activity and profession together therefore the comes across to the viewer as unusual and out of the 'norm'. What the photographer i think is doing here is that they're are making a comment on individuality, they're asking the audience where has the beauty individuality and uniqueness gone. this is reiterated in the image subject too. The model is representation of this dilemma,  to me she looks slightly defeated from her stance and makes me wonder if she's a representing a woman looking for that '1 in a million'. Her slouched stance against the wall and downward angle of her eyes suggest she's weary of the mundane and monotonous manner of people within her society and feels her quest may be in vein. The danger dress, which i think is titled so because of it's length (or lack of), combined with matching white sneakers i feel may be a hint that there could be resolution to this dilemna as white of tens symbioses purity and hope. I think this is further emphasised in the way the sun is position in this image, the photographer could have easily angled this out but in my opinion has chosen to keep it in order to reflect the possibility of hope. 

All in all, I think this is a beautiful and romantic image. I think the photographer has succeeded in telling a story, a story that perhaps doesn't make a statement but suggests there's a problem with people and society being to similar, identical and lacking individuality. Perhaps she feels were all become clones, cut from the same cloth. However I don't feel the photographer is resigned to this idea, she's still holds out hope that there is light at the end of the tunnel and we can find our 'surfing cowboys'.