Portrayals of Elizabeth I - 'Elizabeth: The Golden Age'

Hair & Make up Designer: Jenny Shircore
Elizabeth I: Cate Blanchett

'Elizabeth: The Golden Age' is the 2007 sequel to the 1997 film 'Elizabeth'. This film features a maturer Elizabeth, played by Cate Blanchett. The film is heavily involved with England's feuding relationship with spain swell as Elizabeth's relationships with her court and Sir Walter Raleigh. 
One particularly scene stood out to me in this film because of my love of the make up and styling used. 

Still from 'Elizabeth:The Golden Age' (2007) - http://tinyurl.com/q8pfs9b

I absolutely adore this image. What I love about it the most is how feminine it looks. Blanchett's skin is as flawless and beautifully porcelain with just a hint of pink to her complexion and with the addition of a strong matte rouge lip gives an overwhelming allure of natural feminity. What I also love about the make up and styling of this image is the abundance of white tones. From her costume to her complexion and the feather in her hair Elizabeth is made to so pure and virginal it's almost angelic. The way she's styled here makes her appear incredibly pure, which fits in with the scene its taken from as Elizabeth is about to enter a church to take her prayers. I think I'm most fond of when Elizabeth is represented in this way, I feel like it's something I can relate to and would like reproduce in my own elizabethan look as these days virginity and purity aren't ideas respected by many people. 

Portrayals of Elizabeth I - 'Elizabeth' 1997

Elizabeth (1997)

Make up & Hair Designer: Jenny Shircore

Make up artist: Anita Burger

Elizabeth I portrayed by Cate Blanchett

Still from the movie 'Elizabeth' (1997) - http://tinyurl.com/my2enee

The very beginning of this film features Elizabeth as a princess, prior to her sister Queen Mary dying of cancer and thus ascending to the thrown. In these earlier scenes, Elizabeth appears very youthful, the make up used appears very minimal. Her complexion is flawless and pale toned,this is emphasised by the red she wears and her auburn colour hair. What I love about this look is how natural it appears, the skin is completely flawless which again puts emphasis on  her youthful and care-free nature (which is about to be disrupted). In this movie still Elizabeth wears her hair down, I image this was a signal to suitors of her unmarried status.

Midway through the film Elizabeth is crowned queen of England and the way Cate Blanchett’s hair and make up is styled is heavily influenced by Elizabeth’s coronation portrait, both of which can be seen below.

Coronation portrait of Elizabeth I c.1600, unknown artist. Oil on canvas.
http://tinyurl.com/p9jvrjo

Still from the movie 'Elizabeth' (1997) featuring Cate Blanchett
http://tinyurl.com/okwsl3q

There are lots of similarities when you compare the movie still from ‘Elizabeth’ with the original coronation portrait including the costume which features an ermine cape, a sign of wealth and nobility as Ermine fur was  incredibly raree and expensive. She also wears a necklace of red and black jewels and pearls.

Blanchett’s hair is down is flowing across her shoulders. Her skin is pale, however not nearly as pale as in the portrait, I think the reason they haven’t made her even more pale in this shot is to dramatise a later transformation in the film which I will discuss next. Like earlier in the film when Elizabeth is still a princess her skin appears very flawless and brought alive with subtle flushes of blush to the cheeks and lips. I think they reason they’ve highlighted this again is during this part of the film Elizabeth is still looking for a male suitor to become king, this would appear attractive to them as is suggested that she was youthful and healthy.

Still from the movie 'Elizabeth' (1997) - http://tinyurl.com/pv677b3

The final image from this film I will discuss is a still from the films ending sequence. In the end scene Elizabeth undergoes a transformation which includes the shaving of her head and the application of white face paint. I believe this visual transformation signifies her transformation from the young, carefree and romantic girl seen at the beginning of the film in to a strong, powerful and ruthless monarch. Her face is painted white to an extreme that it looks unnatural, yet it is very striking and thus gives a sense of power and confidence. I feel that this extreme is used to suggest Elizabeth's rebirth as a virgin queen after her unsuccessful relationship with Robert Dudley as the colour white is seen as the essence of purity.

National Portrait Gallery - Favourite Portrait

'The Real Tudors' exhibition featured many portraits of Elizabeth I, however my favourite of the day was one I hadn't previously come across.

Elizabeth I, Early 17th Century - Unknown Artist
Hanging in 'The Real Tudors' Exhibition
(http://www.andreazuvich.com/history/the-death-of-queen-elizabeth-i/)

The reason I was so drawn to this image of Elizabeth is because of how sculpted her face looks. In this portrait elizabeth's features appear very angular, in particular her nose and eyes. i actually think the way she appears in this portrait brings out her pale complexion and makes it even more beautiful. The reason for painting her in this manner may have been to portray as her as strong and healthy considering this portrait appeared near the end of her reign it could have been created as a method of showing other nations that she remained fitting fit and at the top of her game. The other factor of the portrait Im fond of is how heavily adorned she is with pearls, this symbolised her wealth and high status. 

National Portrait Gallery - The Real Tudors Exhibition

On friday myself and a coach full of 50 other Hair and Make Up first years ventured to central London. Our most important aim of the day was to gain inpsiration for our indiviudal projects by visiting 'The Real Tudors: Kings & Queens Redicovered' exhibiton at the National Portrait Gallery. What Id like to say first about this exhibition is how amazing was to be able to see such iconic portraits in person. Many of the portraits Ive researched so far were on display and it was quite magnificient being able to see them for all their glory and magnifence. 

Take for example this portrait from 1600, in this image Elizabeth sits on her thrown in her coronation robes holding an orb and ceptre. In real life the colours in the painting are far more vivid than photos sourced on the internet. 

(http://www.pinterest.com/pin/448811919087764558/)

What I noticed upon personal inspection of this painting is how rich certain tones are. for example the red in the rubies that adorn her crown, jewellery and dress. I find this to be a very poignant aspect of the painting as red traditionally was a colour that when worn denoted wealth as it was an incredibly expensive colour to source in the 15th century. Likewise, I find the tone of yellow, alike to that of turmeric, is incredibly saturated and and due to the abundance of it, gives the portrait a great allure of royalty. 

What I think Ill take from this portrait is the colours I have to be key in this representation of Elizabeth. 

Elizabethan Cosmetics

"White powder, rouge and lip colouring formed the basic cosmetic equipment of the fashionable Elizabethan Lady" 

"One of the most successful means of creating white powder was by using cerise, or white lead, which was extremely dangerous"

"After the face was powdered, rouge was applied to the cheeks; at this period red ochre was the most popular colorant" 

The Artifical Face, Fenja Gunn 1973 pg 76

What I gain from these sources is a general idea of the look women of this era were trying to achieve. The ideal of the time was very much an imitation of Elizabeth I with pale white skin and red painted cheeks and lips. 

Ive found that to whiten the face women used a cosmetic paste called ceruse, which contained lead. This toxic metal caused hair loss and long term skin problems. (Encyclopedia of Hair, Victoria Sherrow)

Elizabethan Ideals of Beauty

For my initial research I have begun to delve in to the Elizbethan era, investigating what was considered 'beautiful' in this period.

"It would be true to say that no single individual has ever exerted such an influence on the fashions and beauty of a period'

The Artifical Face, Fenja Gunn 1973, pg 73

"In the Queen was personified the Elizabethan ideal of beauty" 

The Artificial Face, Fenja Gunn 1973, pg 74

From these two quotes I hold that it would be safe to say that Elizabeth didn't just follow trends during her reign as queen, she was the one who set the standard. I conclude that in my research it would be wise to look to images of her to gauge a firm understanding of what constituted 'beauty' during this time. 

(Portrait of Elizabeth I in coronation robes, 1959 unknown artist http://tinyurl.com/mtylxxh)

The image above shows Elizabeth I at the age of 25, the year she was crowned queen of England. From this you can see her complexion was incredibly pale, almost white and translucent. Her eyebrows can barely be seen and her strawberry blonde hair flows down her shoulders and back, this could have possibly been a representation of her unmarried state as married women in this era often wore their hair up. Despite the colourless complexion, a flush can be seen in the lips and cheeks. Im very fond of the contrast between the creaminess of Elizabeth's porcelain complexion and fiery red tones found in her hair colour. 

Elizabeth's forehead does appear quite large in this portrait and among others, a sign of nobility in this period. 

"She also plucked her eyebrows and forehead to reveal a great expanse of white skin" 

The Artificial Face, Fenja Gunn 1973 pg 85

This quote really drives home to me the extent Elizabeth would go to to ensure she portrayed the appropriate image of herself, every care is taken to give the impression of power and nobility. 

(Portrait of Elizabeth 1, Unknown artist Circa 1588 http://tinyurl.com/oek7fuc) 

This later portrait of Elizabeth in her 50's also displays many of the Elizabethan conventions of beauty. Her hair appears much darker in tone, possibly due to treatments used to maintain colour, although it is known that Elizabeth owned many wigs. Again, her hairline is pushed back to reveal a long pale forehead. her complexion is almost translucent with plucked eyebrows drawing attention to the eyes, which appear dark and small. In this portrait I also notice the emphasis on pearls, in almost every portrait of Elizabeth Ive seen she is adorned with pearls around the décolletage and as well as placed within the hair.

Introduction to Project Brief

Here's a little information about myself and why I want to study Hair & Make Up Design;

My name is Charlotte and I began studies at Solent University in 2013 on the Fashion Styling course. Although I enjoyed these studies I found myself most drawn to the aspects of the course that involved hair and make up practice. During my second term it became apparent to me that I desired very much to be part of what was going on in the Hair and Make Up Design pathway, so I made the decision to leave and rejoin the university as a Hair and Make Up first year. So far, I have not regretted this decision for a second! 

(This is me, you'll soon come to realise that I love a coral lip)

As an avid reader of beauty blogs and having previously worked for Benefit Cosmetics, the beauty industry is something I am incredibly passionate about. What Im looking forward to most about the course is the opportunity to learn new skills in make up application and to try my hand at a range of different things. One of my biggest concerns is the hair aspect. Hair scares me. Im not particularly practised in hair styling, but I'm determined to attend every session and practice as much as possible in my own time to obtain a level of competency I am happy with. 

So this term sees first years embark on a project entitled 'The New Elizbaethans' and tasks us to manipulate and translate Elizbaethan ideas of beauty in to a contemporary look. 

What I know of the Elizabethan era is fairly minimal, what I can remember from school and through films and tv. However, one representation of this era particularly strikes a chord with me. My Dad is a lover of british sit-coms and one of the shows i remember with most fondness is Blackadder and most notably Blackadder II which is set amidst the Elizbethan Era with the title character playing an advisor to Queen Elizabeth I portrayed by Miranda Richardson. 

Blackadder II - Rowan Atkinson & Miranda Richardson http://www.cosplayisland.co.uk/files/costumes/5963/72574/CI_72574_1356694598.jpg

Although heavily lampooned, some of my first impressions of the Elizabethan Era came from this adaptation. I remember Queen Elizabeth to be portrayed as this powerful and often reckless monarch who ordered beheadings left, right and centre. Elizabeth was an unmarried monarch, often referred to as the 'Virgin Queen'. 

Induction Week

The second part of our induction week activities included going out in to Southampton and researching make up companies by visiting local counters. From our discussion with counter staff and in-store media i have collated the following research;

Smashbox
Smashbox is a relatively new cosmetics brand which boosts being born from the photographic studio, aiming to create looks that look good not just in person but on camera as well. Their Signature product is the Photo Finish Foundation Primer (£25.00). I had a play with this product on the back of my hand and found it to make the surface of my skin very velvety, which i imagine is ideal for flawless foundation application. 

From my visit in store i found that since the invention of the original Photo Finish Primer, Smashbox have developed a family of primers that cater to different needs including illumination, colour correction and lighter formula. 

MAC

Out of all the counters we visited, I found our discussion with Billy Rae on the MAC counter in John Lewis to be the most educational. Billy explained to us that because MAC has such a wide range of products that cater to the general public as well as industry professionals, they haven't got just one signature or bestselling product.

What I found incredibly interesting was what she told me about the Lipstick 'Ruby Woo' ( which apparently sells every 3 seconds across the world. 

She also mentioned how their Face and Body Foundation is one of their most popular amongst professionals for its ability to cover almost anything. The idea of having a foundation that can relied on to cover even the trickiest of camouflage requirements appeals to me to have part of my kit. 

MAC lipstick in 'Ruby Woo'. 

Benefit

Benefit is a brand I have a lot of experience with having used their products for a number of years and also working for the company as a beauty advisor. Our conversation with the counter assistant confirmed my expectations that their key products had remained the same since i worked for the brand.

Their first signature product is the They're Real Mascara (£19.50), which claims to have been the UK's best selling mascara for the last two years. It also boasts numerous awards. This Product I have purchased a number of times in the past, having been pleased with its effective hard plastic wand. I have however recently moved to using a similar mascara from MAC which i find to be more effective at elongating the lashes. 

An image of They're Real placed prominently across my local Benefit Counter.

Laura Mercier

Unlike the other brands I visited during our research trip, I have never used any products from the Laura Mercier range. I did, however, have a small knowledge of their product range beforehand. Ive seen Laura Mercier product on various beauty blogs over the last two years, including the Laura Mercier Foundation Primer and the Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturiser SPF20. Both of these products can be seen in the image below where it is being advertised that they are responsible for Instyle's Best Beauty Buy Awards for Best Tinter Moisturiser and Best Primer. 

Bobbi Brown

Bobbi Brown Cosmetics is a brand I have become very familiar with over the last few years, having visited counters and purchased a number of their products. What I do really like about the Bobbi Brown line is the very sleek, minimal 'no-fuss' packaging style. On our visit to the counter is southampton, we were given a list of Bobbi's biggest sellers.

1. Long Wear Gel Eyeliner (£18.00)

2. Lip Colour (£19.50)

3. Creamy Concealer Kit (£24.50)

4. Smokey Eye Mascara (£22.50)

5. Bronzing Powder (£28.00) 

6. Skin Foundation Stick (£29.00)

7. Vitamin Enriched Face Base (£38.50)

8. Pot Rouge for Lips & Cheeks (£19.00)

9. Shimmer Brick (£32.50)

10. Long Wear Cream Shadow Stick (£20.00)

Out of the list above I actually own the number one best seller, I love the formula of the Gel Eyeliner as it glides on it with ease but has a great density of colour. I use it for my personal make up as well as part of my professional kit. 

All images are my own. 

Summer Project

As Hair & Make Up BA new starters, we took part in induction week seminars and workshops to break us in to the course and to meet our peers and tutors. 

For part of this we were required to complete a summer project assignment. For this assignment I was tasked to create a mood board that represented who I want to be in 5 years time. 

Above is a picture of my completed mood board. Through the images Ive chosen Ive tried to represent my desire to one day work for editorial projects in the fashion industry, working with and alongside premium brands such as Bobbi Brown and Chanel Cosmetics. I also see myself stepping in to the world of Beauty journalism, writing features for magazines like Elle or Instyle magazine. 

I think I've chosen a good variety of images that express my future goals. However, I think I could have put greater effort in to making the final outcome look more professional, perhaps through presenting it digitally. 

We also had the opportunity to view other students work and discuss their aspirations and ideas about the course. 

This is Adi's mood board. She has similar editorial aspirations to me. I love the way she's laid hers out in a time-line manner as a projection of how she'd like to reach her  career goal. Unlike me, Adi has expressed a strong desire to travel across the world. The idea of travelling all over the world for months at a time isn't a hugely appealing aspect to me as Im quite a family orientated person, but this discussion has made me realise I think Id very much like to be a UK based make up artist travelling for specific projects.